Month: March 2016

Into Patek Philippe New York Rockefeller Service Repair Center

In 2013, Patek Philippe’s US headquarters was relocated to the Rockefeller Center in New York, where the brand’s North American base is located. Its history dates back to the late 1930s. The new façade covers an area of ​​34,000 square feet (about 3,159 square meters), of which 8,000 square feet (about 743 square meters) is a watchmaking workshop. Patek Philippe has also doubled the size of the US after-sales service and repair stores.
   The new facade is exactly like the design of the Geneva headquarters. When you step into the New York workshop in Midtown Manhattan, it feels like you are in the Swiss headquarters. Patek Philippe workshops around the world use the same model design to ensure consistency with the brand concept. The enlarged facade can meet the work needs of 20 watchmakers, and this number is expected to grow to 40 in the next few years.
   Highly complex watches (such as tourbillons or minute repeaters) and antique watches are usually returned to Geneva for repair by the original watchmaker. In addition, any watch from 1960 or later can be repaired in New York.
   The Rockefeller Center maintains and repairs approximately 10,000 watches each year, with varying degrees of complexity. ‘If it is a fourth-level watch and only two watchmakers can repair it, the waiting time may be long,’ said Larry Pettinelli, Patek Philippe’s president of the United States. At any given time, there will be 1,400 watches in the waiting sequence. ‘
   Before each watch is returned to the owner, it must first undergo strict quality control. ‘We have to make sure that the watches entering the quality management department have met the customer’s needs.’ Explains watchmaker Jason Bird, who also details the additional inspections that Patek Philippe watches need to pass before returning to the owner.
   The first of these is the use of a water-free seal tester to check the water resistance of the watch by means of air pressure. First lower the micrometer sensor to contact the case and the sapphire crystal, apply air pressure and use the sensor to monitor the shrinkage of the case. ‘Increase the air pressure and the case is squeezed, so the air does not penetrate into the case,’ Jason Bird explained. ‘If not, it means that the air has penetrated, and water will follow.’ 3 or 6 bar depends on the type of watch, sports watches, such as Aquanaut, must pass a higher standard of testing.
   The watch will also be placed under a high-performance microscope to carefully check the thread ends, scratches and other minor flaws to ensure that the appearance is flawless. How demanding are Patek Philippe’s standards? A team of experienced watch reporters was invited to find out what failed the watch, and no one could do it. In addition, the quality inspector will check the function of the buckle and crown to ensure easy and smooth operation and adjustment. The setting of the hands when the date changes, and the exact time when the moon phase advances, must meet the strict standards of Patek Philippe.
   After the above steps are completed, the quality inspector will use the chronograph to test the accuracy and isochronism of the watch in six directions, and repeat it after 24 hours to ensure that the daily error of the watch is between -3 and +2 seconds. The power reserve performance of each movement is also tested and must meet the minimum power reserve requirements. After the power of the automatic movement barrel is fully released, it is wound on a quantitative basis according to the specific situation. ‘It will run for 12 hours continuously, and most of the movements will usually need an additional 6 hours,’ said Jason Bird. ‘If it passes the test, then its The automatic winding system is efficient; if it fails, we will return it to the watchmaker for repair. ‘

Glasutti Original Series Carding Senator Series

When it comes to Senator Senator Senator Glashütte, I believe everyone is cheered up. It is a classic series, and the classic 39-59-01-02-04 model is even better. The table is hard to find. In fact, in addition to the senators that everyone knows well, there are other forms of watches in the senator family. Today I will give you a summary of the original Senator Glashütte series.

There are many branches under the Senator series. Today I will simply divide it for everyone. The first is the SenatorKarree series, the SenatorNavigator series, the SenatorMeissen series, the Senator essence series, and other senator watches. All in other Senator watches.

 Senator Elite Collection

 Senator Elite Series watches, which are the senator watches we often say verbally and think in our hearts, peach-shaped blue steel hands, orbital minute scales, and Roman numeral time scales are all its significant features, so I want to It is very easy to distinguish it in the Senator series.

Senator Elite Collection



The most classic senator series watches have the main features of the senators series, Roman numerals, pink-steel blue steel hands, track-type minute scale, double G logo at the end of the central second hand. It can be said that it is a classic entry-level model of the original Senator Elite Collection of Glashütte, that is, this watch is sometimes difficult to find.


Senator Elite Series Perpetual Calendar 100-02-22-12-05


Senator Essential Series Tourbillon 94-03-04-04-04



Senator Elite Series models, in addition to simple models, also have many complex models, including perpetual calendars, tourbillon models, and this well-known global tourbillon model. As for me and I, In the Senator Essence Series, because I think it has many characteristics of the original Glashütte Original Senator Essence Series, it is included in the Senator Essence Series.

This globe tourbillon is the most unique and precise watch ever made by the Glashütte brand. It took six years from the initial conception, design, and assembly. It accurately displays the world and its 37 time zone information in 8.72 cubic centimeters of space, making it the watch of choice for travel enthusiasts. In addition, it is also the world’s first mechanical watch that integrates a variety of complex functions. It adopts a unique flying tourbillon, and the watch breaks through the design of backward adjustment of the perpetual calendar, automatic date and time zone synchronization, etc problem. Glashütte has applied for four patents to protect its design and production.


Senator Automatic 100-08-03-02-04

In addition to the Senator Elite series, it has a rosette, orbital minute scale, and Roman numerals. It also has another model, like the one in the figure above, with sword-shaped hands. The bar minute scale and bar hour mark design make this watch even more functionally divided. There are a variety of styles to choose from, including large calendar, movable reserve plus calendar, moon phase plus calendar, weekly calendar, full calendar, and perpetual calendar. The common point is the same use of sword-shaped pointers, bar minute scales and bar time scales.


SenatorRattrapante chronograph 99-01-03-03-04

The Senator Elite Series also has the existence of such a special watch, which combines the characteristics of the two previous watches, the peach blossom needle. The Roman hour markers and matching bar-shaped minute scales are also more complicated and special, so I will talk about them separately here. In addition to the characteristic large calendar display window, the watch also has a complex chronograph function and a flyback function.
SenatorMeissen watches


SenatorMeissen 100-10-05-04-04 watch

One of the most notable features of the SenatorMeissen series is that there are two blue swords on the dial. It also marks that they are drawn by hand. The SenatorMeissen series is similar to the Senate elite series. It also uses peach needles and Roman numerals. The difference is that the watch does not have a track-type minute scale, and it also uses a handmade Meissen disk dial design. At present, there are 18K white gold and 18K rose gold models to choose from.


SenatorMeissen Tourbillon Watch

 In addition to the simple models, Senator Meissen also has tourbillon watches, as well as some special customized watches, such as the Mason Enamel Tourbillon Dragon Year Limited Watch, and also the Meson Enamel Painted Kowloon Wall Watch, limited to 9 sets of 9 each. The common feature is the design of the Mason enamel dial, which is the most important feature of this series.

SenatorNavigator watches

The SenatorNavigator series is a watch series specially made by Glashütte for pilots. The elements of pilot watches are solid and durable, and the dial design is simple and easy to read. Therefore, the SenatorNavigator series models are designed with ‘losangepleines’ with green luminous materials. Hands, hours and minutes. The 12 o’clock hour dial of the dial is displayed in a traditional equilateral triangle. The SenatorNavigator series also has a large calendar display and a chronograph to provide the most practical functions for pilots.


SenatorNavigator series 100-03-07-05-04

The SenatorNavigator series is also full of features in design. All the scales and blue hands of the watch are coated with luminous materials. According to the traditional manufacturing method, the case is finished with a silk surface effect, and the leather watch is equipped with an uneven surface. band.

SenatorKarree watches

The SenatorKarree series is a barrel-shaped watch in the Glashütte men’s watch. Although this definition is simple and rough, it is the easiest to understand. This nice and elegant shape is the result of more than two years of research. It is not easy to match the circular design of the Senator watch series with a square shape. The purpose is to create a Senator watch with a clear outline while retaining the details of the Karree model. During the development process, seven different drawings were drafted, and finally all the requirements were satisfactorily met. The SenatorKarree series reflects the highest technology of the watchmaking industry and represents a perfect and uniform design.


SenatorNavigator Collection 39-42-53-52-04

The common feature of the SenatorNavigator series watches is the design of the barrel-type case, which features a large calendar, a large calendar plus a moon phase, a moon phase plus a power reserve, a chronograph, a calendar plus chronograph, a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon. Flywheel. It is worth mentioning that the entire series of SenatorNavigator is equipped with a padded hand-made strap. The rounded ends are close to the edge of the table, which is absolutely comfortable to wear.

Senator other watches

In addition to the above small series of senators, there are some other models. Although they belong to the senator series, they do not belong to the above small series, so I will put some of the remaining senator watches here. The models are all here. I personally think that Glashütte’s product series is a certain problem, and the official division of the series is also chaotic.



The first is this watch with rich Breguet color. I really don’t know which small series in the Senator should be put into it. The classic small three-pin design, fisheye needle and coin-embossed bezel, which are also the same type. Commonality in watches.


In addition to that fish-eye needle, there are also this kind of stick-shaped hands with upper triangular time scales and a watch with a 12-sided bezel. Although the watch also has significant characteristics, it is rarely seen from official data. The description of this type of watch can be seen, so it is also included in other Senator models.



This kind of watch with Mercedes-Benz hands is very rare. It is basically no different from Rolex’s Mercedes-Benz hands. Which specific series should belong to the senator. I don’t know yet, so I put him in the senator’s other. In the watch.

Through the combing of the Senator Glashütte series, I learned that the Glashütte brand series is imperfect. Perhaps after 2000, that is, after being acquired by Swatch, we focused on the classification of the series. The Suti brand can give a complete brand series division criteria, so that it will be very helpful for everyone to understand the brand culture.

Braise And Renault Team Launch Br-x1 Rs16 Automatic Watch And Br-x1 Rs16 Tourbillon Watch

On April 14, 2016, during the Pirelli China Shanghai Grand Prix, Bell & Ross teamed up with Renault to launch the BR-X1RS16 watch to celebrate the exciting partnership between the two parties. As the representative of the ultimate aviation timepiece, Bell & Ross has now become the professional choice of F1 drivers.

   The Shanghai International Circuit has a total length of 5.4 kilometers, which is not only conducive to the high-speed track with high horsepower engines, but also challenging and fully reflects the driver’s technology, is the perfect stage for the release of two new limited edition watches. The BR-X1RS16 automatic watch and the BR-X1RS16 tourbillon watch, named after the R.S.16 car developed by the Renault team for the 2016 season, are only available exclusively during the Grand Prix.

   On Wednesday, April 13, Renault held a special event at BarRouge in Shanghai. Fabiende Nonancourt, Bell & Ross Global Sales Director, presents a customized watch to Kevin Magnussen and Jorlian Palmer with the driver’s name and team number engraved on the watch.

   Carlos-ARosillo, Co-founder and Chief Executive Officer of Bell & Ross, said: ‘We are proud of the performance of the new challenges of Kevin, Jolyon and the entire Renault team. We are very happy that FabiendeNonancourt has been able to give two outstanding drivers a custom wrist in Shanghai. The Renault team and Bell & Ross share the goal and pursuit of breaking through mechanical boundaries, which is well reflected in the new limited edition watch. The partnership between the two parties is exciting and meaningful.

 BR-X1 RS16 automatic watch, limited to 250 pieces

Movement: BR-CAL.313 self-winding chronograph skeleton movement, ‘X’ bridge, 56 gems, 28,800 vibrations / hour (4 Hz)
Mirror: anti-glare sapphire crystal
Functions: hours, minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock, hollow out date at 6 o’clock
Chronograph: 30-minute time lap at 9 o’clock, central chronograph second hand, tachymeter scale on flange
Water resistance: 100 meters
Case: 45 mm diameter, Carbon Forgé® forged carbon, grade 5 titanium, ceramic and rubber padding, rocker buttons, back-through design, stained sapphire crystal
Dial: gray tone, metal applied hour-markers, metal hollow hour and minute hands, coated with Superluminova® fluorescent layer, aluminum 30-minute chronograph
Strap: woven rubber and carbon fiber bi-material strap
Buckle: Black PVD stainless steel pin buckle
BR-X1 RS16 Tourbillon watch, limited to 20 pieces

Movement: BR-CAL.283 manually wound flying tourbillon movement, column wheel single button timing, assembled from 282 parts, 35 gems, 21,600 vibrations / hour (3 Hz), 4 available Tian Power Reserve
Mirror: anti-glare sapphire crystal
Functions: Hours and minutes, 30-minute time lap at 11 o’clock, 60-second time lap at 1 o’clock, power reserve display at 9 o’clock, and flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Water resistance: 100 meters
Case: 45 mm diameter, Carbon Forgé® forged carbon, grade 5 titanium, ceramic and rubber padding, rocker button, back-through design, anti-glare sapphire crystal
Dial: grey tone, metal appliqued hour markers, metal hollow hour and minute hands, all coated with Superluminova®
Strap: woven rubber and carbon fiber bi-material strap
Clasp: Black PVD stainless steel pin buckle

Tribute To The 1930s Flying Military Watch Longines Longines Avigation Type A-7 Us Limited Edition L28234532

LONGINES has released a new Avigation Type A-7 flight watch. In particular, in addition to awakening people’s memory of the brand’s development of flight watches, it also symbolizes the cooperative relationship between Longines and the US military. .
Longines’ Avigation Watch Type A-7 combines the meaning of the words “Aviation” and “Navigation Navigation”. It is a replica of a flight watch from the 1935s. It is also a watch created by Longines for the US Air Force. In fact, it is not so easy to be named the Type A-7, because the Type A-7 refers to the specifications of the Air Force flight watch, and must be able to serve as a backup timer and a simple navigation astronomical watch. In addition, the watch also needs to pass the official requirements for accuracy, durability, and clarity of visual reading in order to win the Type A-7 specifications.

Longines launches new Avigation Type A-7 limited edition in the United States, including obvious changes in table diameter and face plate details

According to the brand, the prototype of this Avigation Type A-7 US limited edition is a reference to the military watch made by the brand for the U.S. military in 1935. Usually, when we see it, we will be attracted by the 45 ° tilted dial style. Longines originally designed this for the pilot’s need to wear a watch. The advantage of this design is that when the wearer is flying an airplane, he can keep flying with one hand, and the other hand does not need assistance or intention You can see the time clearly by tilting your head.
A few years ago Longines also launched a replica of this watch-although the new model is exactly the same as the movement carried in the previous replica, the difference in this modification is relatively high, such as its diameter From nearly 50mm to 44mm, the decoration process of the face plate and the font of the time scale have also changed. The speedometer scale on the outer edge of the outer plate has also been removed, and the date display has also disappeared, making this watch look more Simplicity and retroness are also heavier.

1935 antique Type A-7 flight watch

On the back of the real case back is a commemorative totem related to the model. Underneath is the movement L788.2. This movement is based on the ETA’s A08.L11 movement, which has a frequency of 28,800vph and a power reserve. There are 54 hours. There is a small dial on the front of the watch, a 30-minute scoreboard on the top, and a small second dial on the bottom. The timekeeping function of the watch is operated by the single-touch handle on the crown at 2 o’clock. Although its original design was not skewed at the beginning, but with the unique structure of the face plate, the crown is more prominent with the single-touch handle. In the current position, it is not easy to hit the crown, and it is easier to operate.

The watch face is treated with a gradual matte finish, the luminous paint on the hour markers is covered with beige, and with a distressed leather strap, it looks quite retro.

If you compare it with the prototype model in 1935, you can find that the ‘reduction’ of the replica is quite high. For example, the sandblasted textured surface plate has gradually changed from the inside to the outside and gradually changes in black. In addition, the time-scale luminous paint is used. Beige also looks like a natural yellowing after years of baptism. But there seems to be a part of the original specifications, which is 30 meters of water resistance, which will make people feel slightly inadequate. For current sports watches / military watches, 30 meters is a bit like a disc Side dishes, if you can add more should make people feel more satisfied.

Avigation Type A-7 US Limited Edition

Stainless steel material / L788.2 self-winding movement / hour, minute, small seconds display / single-hand chronograph function / sapphire crystal mirror / waterproof 30 meters / diameter 44mm / limited to 100 pieces / reference price: 29,000 RMB- —