Month: August 2014

2018 Basel Show, Rolex, Patek Philippe’s New Truth Revealed!

It is not too late to get to the topic. Now is the time for the truth to be revealed. When I saw the new watches from Rolex and Patek Philippe this year, various speculations before the show finally came to light, and the truth is as follows.
The first is Rolex.

Rolex steel case five-bead chain red and blue circle.

   Before the show, the ‘Five-Bead Chain’ Greenwich GMT circulating on the Internet and in the circle of friends was true. The truth is that this year Rolex launched the ‘five-bead chain’ version of the steel case red and blue circle Greenwich GMT (No. 126710). Note that you read that right, it is a steel watch. In the previous article, I also said that the five-bead chain with Greenwich GMT is reasonable, no problem, because historically, the early models of Greenwich GMT 1675, 16753 have used five-bead chains. Many brothers said they did n’t understand after watching the “Five-Bead Chain” version of Greenwich GMT. Why do you want to use five-bead chains for red and blue circles now? The reason is to make a distinction from the red and blue circles of a platinum shell.

The picture above is the red and blue circle of the platinum case, and the picture below is the red and blue circle of the steel case. The bracelet is a big difference.
   Brothers who are familiar with Rolex know that Rolex’s red and blue rings were previously in a platinum shell, without a steel shell version. Now that the red and blue rings of the steel shell are out, platinum and stainless steel look very similar. How can it be different from the previous platinum red and blue rings? Just rely on this ‘five-bead chain’. The red and blue circle of the white gold case uses the ‘oyster bracelet’, and the red and blue circle of the steel case uses the ‘five-bead chain’. The appearance of the oyster bracelet and the five-bead chain are very different. When you look at the bracelet, you can immediately distinguish whether the red and blue ring is white gold or steel. Rolex is clever. It also solves practical problems (different platinum and stainless steel), and is in line with history (GMT has used five-bead chains in history), which is reasonable.

   In addition to this chain, the red and blue circle of the five-bead chain steel case also has a very important change. Yes, the movement has been changed. The new red and blue circle uses Rolex’s new generation 32XX series movement (specifically 3285 movement). The red and blue circle of the steel shell five-bead chain has also officially entered the ‘3235 era’, with 70 hours of power.

Rolex’s new steel shell five-bead chain red and blue ring.
   According to current information, the public price of the red and blue circle of this five-bead chain steel case is 8,800 Swiss francs. According to the public price of the steel case blue and black circle, 69300, the red and blue circle of the steel case should be similar. But brothers, you know, the actual price of popular sports labor, let’s take a look slowly.

This year’s replacement of the movement is not just the red and blue ring of the five-bead chain steel case.

The new Rolex 36mm DJ uses the new 3235 movement.
   This year, the most important thing for Rolex is that Rolex’s 36mm DATE JUST has also changed the 3235 movement! Rolex officially released the information of the new 36mm DJ today (March 21, Swiss time), but it quickly deleted the information. The information mentioned that the new 36mm DJ uses the new 3235 movement. At the same time, the Rolex booth window The 36mm DJ is marked ‘NEW’ (new typeface). It was later confirmed that the news that the 36mm DJ replaced the 3235 movement was completely true (No. 126233). The previous ‘controversy’ about whether 36mm can use 3235 movement has now reached a conclusion, 41mm DJ, 36mm DJ, all will use 3235 movement. 41mm DJ, 36mm DJ, buy it casually, except for the size, there is no difference, brothers don’t have to worry about it.

Rolex’s new 36mm DJ.
Below is Patek Philippe.

   Before the watch exhibition this year, Rolex and Patek Philippe both played a ‘disclose news in advance’, but the difference is that Rolex revealed the most heavyweight watch of this year, and Patek Philippe did not release the real ‘main force’. The 5524R and 7234R released by Patek Philippe in advance of the watch exhibition are just ‘a trick’. The true ‘big BOSS’ of this year is the platinum shell nautilus perpetual calendar 5740 and the steel shell grenade timer 5968.

Patek Philippe’s new platinum nautilus perpetual calendar 5740.
   After seeing Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740 this year, some brothers said, how could Patek Philippe produce a perpetual calendar on Nautilus? I think this makes perfect sense. Everyone knows that Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and Vacheron Constantin are three great luxury sports watches. Among them, the Royal Oak and the Four Seas have perpetual calendar versions, but Nautilus does not. Now Patek Philippe has a perpetual calendar on the nautilus, no problem at all. However, it should be noted that this year’s Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740 is a platinum case (using the 240 movement). As a nautilus started as a steel watch, I believe there will be a steel case version of the Nautilus Perpetual Calendar in the future.

Patek Philippe new steel shell grenade timing 5968.
   Another important model of Patek Philippe this year, the steel shell grenade timer 5968 is actually not surprising to me. Because before, some people always said that there are not many models of Patek Philippe grenade, except for the three-pin calendar, that is, there are no other models of additional functions in two places, so some people predict that Patek Philippe will sooner or later opponents ‘start’. This year, Patek Philippe released a timed version of the grenade 5968 (using the CH28 flyback chronograph movement, the disk layout is similar to the Nautilus chronograph 5980, but the 12-hour chronograph is cancelled). This year’s 5968 color matching is too beautiful, orange needles, orange scales, orange ribbons, fashionable to burst, absolutely a summer weapon. As soon as this orange 5968 is listed, the Royal Oak color offshore type can no longer ‘cover the sky with one hand’. The heat of Patek Philippe Grenade has always been less than that of Nautilus, but this steel shell colored grenade timer 5968 is definitely another ‘explosion model’ of Patek Philippe. I hope it will not exceed the public price, but it is estimated to be enough.

What Is A Moon Phase Watch? Moon Phase Watch Terms Explanation

There is a cloudy day in the moon, and being able to apply this phenomenon to a watch is indeed a great invention. The invention of the moon phase watch represents a further integration of clocks and people’s cultural life. The earliest application of this function to watches was Mr. Louis Breguet from Switzerland, who was extremely talented in watch manufacturing. This function was applied to the Breguet pocket watch, and other watch manufacturers have followed suit and made pocket watches with moon phases.

Early Breguet No. 5 Moon Phase Pocket Watch

What is a moon phase watch:
  Most watch dials have a small round dial at the six o’clock or twelve o’clock position, with a moon curved graphic inside. Generally, this is the watch with the moon phase function, of course There are also moon phase watches at ten or two o’clock or elsewhere. Looking at the new moon, eyebrow moon, first quarter moon, convex moon, full moon, interim month, second quarter moon and waning moon on the surface of the disk, the cycle begins and ends, and taste the beauty of the sky on the wrist.

Moon profit and loss chart

Moon phase watch works:
  We can know the change of the moon by observing the change of the small moon dial on the moon phase watch. In addition to adding new elements to the single dial design, this function also gives a new and elegant person who loves the moon and the moon. s Choice. The small dial of a moon phase watch with a complex movement runs for a week of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2.82 seconds (29.5 days). The calculation phase of the moon phase is based on the ancient method of the Chinese lunar calendar. Of the first day. The design error is one day every 33 months, and it must be adjusted once every three years. The slightly simpler moon phase watch takes 29 days to travel a week, so the error is 7 days in a year, so it will be more troublesome to adjust. Of course, in the later period, there is a more accurate moon phase table, such as the Lange 1815 moon phase table, which has accumulated 1058 years, and the error is only one day.
The invention of the moon phase watch:
  The first person who made the moon phase display function was Zhang Heng, an ancient East Han astronomer in China (AD 78-139).
  At that time, he used the water current as the driving force to promote the operation of the gear device. The ball made of fine copper was rotated around the axis once a day, and the armillary instrument automatically demonstrated the sky.

Water transport muddler

  Although our people successfully invented this technology, it was not our people who first applied it to watches, but the Swiss watchmaking genius Mr. Louis Breguet first applied the moon phase feature in the 18th century. On top of a Breguet pocket watch, Patek Philippe, IWC, Vacheron Constantin, and other brands also launched pocket watches with moon phases.
Development of Moon Phase Watches:
  With the continuous improvement and reform of watchmaking technology, gradually the watch has replaced the status of pocket watches, watchmakers have also paid more and more attention to the development and production of watches, and many new features have also appeared on watches.
The smallest moon phase table appeared in 1983:
  In 1983, Blancpain produced the world’s smallest automatic movement with the moon’s profit and loss, month, date and week display. Since then, Blancpain has also occupied a place in moon phase watches.
The 2003 IWC Perpetual Calendar watch appeared to solve the moon phase display problem in the northern and southern hemispheres:
  In 2003, IWC introduced the Portuguese perpetual calendar watch, which solved the problem of the moon phases of the southern hemisphere and the moon phases of the northern hemisphere being mirrored. The moon phase gear has been improved to achieve unparalleled accuracy in the display of the moon phase cycle. One day of error accumulates every 577.5 years.
2010 Millennium Lunar Phase Table Appears:
 In 2010, Lange specially launched the 1815 moon phase watch in commemoration of its 165th anniversary. It adopted a set of gears with a special transmission ratio. It will slowly pull the moon phase disk driven by the spring. The error of each positive month is only 6.61. second. Only after 1058 years of accumulation, the accumulated error will reach 24 hours. Therefore, the 33-month slower error caused by traditional moon phase technology is eliminated, which is a veritable ‘Millennium Moon Phase’.
Summary: The moon phase watch has always been a favorite of elegant people. Although its practical function may not be the most important, it must be the most elegant aspect of a person’s elegance. Since ancient times, China has many moon Beautiful legend, this has also greatly increased people’s pursuit of moon phase watches. Next, our watch house will also recommend some moon phase watches for everyone, please look forward to it.