Month: October 2011

Gorgeous Outerwear Polished By The Movement

The rigorous attitude to time makes the watch always strive for excellence in craftsmanship. An excellent movement must not only be accurate when moving, but also beautiful enough. Regardless of whether the case back is transparent or not, the watch, especially the fine watchmaking, will be in It took some time to polish the movement, and regarded this procedure as an indispensable process in the index process. Piaget Polo FortyFive watch with Geneva print, 800P self-winding movement
The functional polishing enhances the dust and rust prevention ability by smoothing the movement parts, and at the same time makes the parts of the transmission system mesh more accurately to avoid the burrs left by the initial machining to affect the accuracy of the travel time. On the other hand, the decorative polishing puts a gorgeous coat on the ingenious movement, so that it reflects the gorgeous light under the light-obviously, the more popular and beautiful latter gets more For widespread attention.
Although the decorative polishing of the movement does not make much contribution to the accuracy of the travel time, it is closely related to the artistic value of a watch. Polishing is an important listed department in the watch factory. High-end watch brands and high-quality machines The core is carefully polished, and many watch fans even judge the level of a watch by ‘whether the movement has been finely polished’. The reporter once saw the polishing worker holding a circular blade at the Glashütte watch factory, pressing the pearl pattern and the sun pattern one by one, which seemed to be simple but very test the worker’s hand strength, and the fish scale pattern was made like this. The brushed texture was first polished with a material called shellac, and later replaced with sandpaper. In addition, what seems to be the most ‘broad’ bar-shaped Geneva pattern, in fact, the process is more difficult, you need to hold the boxwood blades one by one to push out by hand, so not only need to be very uniform in hand strength, but also to maintain each The lines are absolutely straight and balanced, and a slight bend will be included in the ranks of waste products.
These strict requirements on the polishing of modern watches actually come from the ‘Geneva Rules’ established in 1886. There are 12 rules to remove inferior products and guarantee the quality of the Geneva movement. Each part of the movement is required to be observed. The demanding requirements of ‘grinding’ are ubiquitous. In addition to functional grinding such as chamfering, there are also polishing requirements for decoration, such as ‘visible to the naked eye including screws, groove marks and spiral edges All must be polished without burrs ‘,’ the outside gem grooves of the board must be polished and translucent ‘and so on. Today, this set of rules has become the guarantee of the highest art of watchmaking. No matter which country or region’s watch factory has more or less adhered to some of its terms in its technological tradition. So we can even say this: Although gorgeous decorative polishing does not mean a high-quality movement, a high-quality movement will certainly have a beautiful polishing process for appreciation.
Piaget Polo FortyFive Automatic Movement Watch, Geneva Pattern, 800P Automatic Movement
Geneva pattern
日内瓦 Geneva pattern, which became popular in the 1920s, is a common pattern, so it is named after the sparkling Lake Geneva. Specifically divided into: strip ripple, ring ripple and radial ripple. The annular corrugations are in the form of concentric circular strips of equal width, the radial corrugations gradually rotate from the center to the surroundings, and the stripe corrugations are wider vertical strips. The first two types of corrugations are less used today, but the stripe Geneva pattern often occupies the movement’s splints and automatic rotors, especially through most transparent casebacks. The automatic rotors are low-key bars. Shaped Geneva pattern, the red and sapphire bearings on it become the best embellishment.
The sun pattern is a more delicate radial pattern. It is used on small parts to straighten the curve of the radial Geneva pattern, which is the sun pattern. In addition, there are simple straight line drawing and circular drawing. At first glance, it looks like a plane. On closer inspection, you will find a delicate and uniform texture. It is often arranged on the outermost periphery of the plywood and on various couplings in the movement.
Pearl pattern
The pearl pattern is slightly similar to the fish scale pattern, but the internal texture of each ‘pearl’ of the pearl pattern is more uneven than that of the ‘fish scale’, and the area overlapped by each other is smaller, and the pearl pattern has more ‘ ‘Circular.’ But now it is only used in a small part to help create the layered sense of the movement.
Fish-scale pattern
The widely used fish scales are very agile. The fish scale pattern is a round fish scale-like pattern, layered in layers, with a repeating cautious aesthetic. Because of its small and fragmented pattern, it is often used in places that are not easy to see, such as the bottom plate of the movement. Of course, some experts believe that the fish scale pattern is treated because it is not as good-looking as the Geneva pattern. Therefore, it is only indicated that there is ‘abrasion’ in the inconspicuous place. However, there are still many watches that place it on the rotor and upper splint. Wait for prominent position.